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One additional problem that has been happening with the TR6 clutch set up is that the front bearing cover that sits over the input shaft into the transmission gets rough and the throwout bearing fails to slide on it. One fix is to get a new cover . Often owners change out the cover, throwout bearing, clutch shaft and release fork. This renews all of the possibilities with this system. A new clutch slave cylinder might be in order as well. This may not be what is happening to your car, but clutch failure over such a short period of use does not sound right. It sounds to me that something else is wrong.
There have certainly been lots of issues with the TR6 clutch, with many different causes. IMO at least some of those causes are the various attempts to re-engineer the TR6 clutch using parts from other cars that aren't well suited to the TR6.
Does your clutch engage with the pedal very close to the floor? If so, the problem may be accumulated wear in the linkage pivots, which can be addressed (to some extent) without replacing the clutch. The pivot between the clutch pedal and the master cylinder pushrod rarely gets lubricated, which can lead to rust and rapid wear, resulting in too little travel to fully release the clutch. There are also some modifications you can make, like using the larger bore MC from an early TR6, and replacing the plastic line from the MC to the slave with a "braided SS" line (which actually uses Teflon inside to contain the fluid). The Teflon does not swell as much under pressure, giving more travel at the slave cylinder.
Otherwise, I'm afraid the grinding going into reverse pretty much proves that either the clutch or the pilot bearing is dragging, and the gearbox will have to come out.
There's a good article at http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org…..Clutch.htm that goes over some of the issues and attempts to work around them.
One point that I feel could have been better explained in that article : The original setup used special 3/8" "dowel bolts" with precision made shanks to precisely locate the gearbox to the engine back plate. Ordinary 3/8" bolts usually have the shank undersize by a bit, to make it easier to get them into the hole. If you can't find the correct "dowel bolts", then using precision dowels (as supplied in the Gunst kit) is the next best thing. I actually went a step farther on my Stag and made my own dowel bolts from precision drill rod (by threading both ends for nuts).
FWIW, I have a TR6 clutch in my TR3, and it has been trouble-free for going-on 100,000 miles now. I actually had it out at around 50,000 miles (while transferring the gearbox from my wrecked TR3A to the current TR3) and the components all looked so good that I put it back in! So it can be done.
I've also got to say that I would be looking for a different shop. I do pretty much all my own TR work, but I've noticed from taking my other cars to various shops that things almost always go wrong at some shops and almost always go right at others. The trick is sorting out which is which.
I'm Mike Tiderman and new to the site. I bought a '73 TR6 in '99. Due to frame rust I had the engine and drive train transferred to a '75 TR6 donor. I had the engine rebuilt in 2007 and had the clutch replaced at the same time, at the shop's suggestion.
Between Feb 2007 and Oct 2011 the clutch was replaced three times and the clutch pedal box rebuilt once as follows:
10/07 clutch replaced at about 2,000 miles after rebuild
01/09 clutch pedal box rebuilt about 4,700 miles after rebuild
08/10 clutch replaced about 6,100 miles after rebuild
10/11 clutch replaced about 7,100 miles after rebuild
All the work was done at the same shop.
The frame on the 1973 was rusting out and I had the drive train transferred to a donor 1975 TR-6. When I got the car back from the shop, the same one that had done the above work, in Jan 2015 the shop owner said that there had been a problem with clutches in the past and that they had replaced the clutch during the transfer to the '75 body to preclude future problems.
I don't ride the clutch, race the car, or try speed shifting.
I have recently encountered periodic difficulty in shifting into forward gears continual grinding shifting into reverse. I'm taking the car back in to the same shop next week. At this point I don't know if the problem is with the clutch or the transmission. I'd like to get an idea as to whether there continues to be problems with Triumph clutches.
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