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Looks Like I Need a New Clutch-Advice Appreciated
January 3, 2017
11:52 am
charley fitch
Forum Posts: 446
Member Since:
July 1, 2007

When dealing with the clutch and the difficulty of getting to it. It is always recommended to replace as much as you can afford.

December 30, 2016
9:30 pm
Ed Messina
Forum Posts: 3
Member Since:
October 25, 2016

After an expensive (and overpriced) trip to a local mechanic to install a LUK clutch and plate, the car would "jutter" and catch whenever it warmed up. I had them disassemble the clutch and also replace the release bearing as a bronze one, in addition to replacing the sleeve and face from the gearbox side. Expensive experience but now it works very well.

July 28, 2016
10:12 pm
Forum Posts: 5
Member Since:
June 12, 2016

I'd like to thank everyone who stepped up with suggestions and advice for me on what turned out to be the infamous broken clutch fork pin problem. So after buying and installing a new clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, hydraulic hose and steel line only to find out that wasn't the issue, I learned another lesson TR6 repair – check with the experts first.

I had my TR transported to Classic Restorations in Warren, OH and Mark did a great job installing all new clutch parts, tuned the SU carbs and replaced all the rubber fuel line hoses. All within a few short days and I had the TR back within a week. Bravo Mark!

Again, thanks to all for your responses.

The return of the TR!

July 10, 2016
6:03 pm
Forum Posts: 5
Member Since:
June 12, 2016

Slave Cyl installed correctly.

There's a good 1-1/2"+ play in the Clutch Lever. When moving the Lever there's a little resistance and mechanical sound about half way in pushing the Lever either way.

Sound like a Clutch Fork Pin issue?

July 9, 2016
9:29 pm
Forum Posts: 5
Member Since:
June 12, 2016

What I thought was a Clutch Slave Cylinder failure last weekend appears to be a Clutch issue. I installed a new Slave this past week and after trying to bleed the system the Clutch Slave Cylinder Boot popped off and was riding on the Clutch Push Rod and the Push Rod traveled enough to nearly exit the Slave Cylinder Chamber. The issue: Too much back & forth play in the Clutch Lever.

So the question I'm hoping I can receive some feedback on (and I'm sure this type of question has been posted many many times) is what new clutch should I consider?

I'm flat bedding my 75 TR6 to a shop within the next seven to ten days.

LuK? Borg & Beck (AL)? TRF Magic Clutch? Sachs? (BTW, Moss Motors sells 10 times Borg & Beck (AL) clutch kits within the past 12 months than their second most popular clutch)

And what release bearing should I consider?

Since I'm buying the replacement parts for the mechanic and need to do so early this coming week, I need to make some parts buying decisions.

In addition, anyone have any opinions on the Good Parts Rolling Bearing Clutch Mechanism? It's pricey but I'd rather commit to parts that will last and hopefully be trouble and worry free for quite a while.

Here's a link to the Good Parts Clutch Mechanism:

I'll for sure want all seals looked at while the transmission is out and the Main Thrust Bearing. Anything else I should be looking at before it's all put back together?

I would appreciate any and all suggestions. I've own my '75 since 1981 with 44K original miles and never had to have the Clutch replaced. It was just a matter of time I guess.


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